Etibor Mirzanazarova,
Art Critic
There are different trends in the use of national traditions in the clothes. Among them are comparative re-shaping of the source, direct copying of design solutions, the use of different methods of decoration, etc. The surest way of changing the ethnic garments is the creation of its relevance to the modern lifestyle that is associated with the study of the history of clothing. In recent years, in our country much attention is paid to design, personnel training in this field and growth of domestic industries up to the level of modern requirements. Uzbek designers are actively involved in these processes. Actively engaged in creation of clothes is the designer, Zulfiya Sultan, who demonstrated the Uzbek clothes in the international fashion festivals. In her work, Z. Sultan (Zulfiya Sultanbaeva) successfully uses the centuries-old national traditions, giving them new life.
The entrance of Zulfiya into the arena of high fashion began in 2007 with her participation in the Fashion Week, held in Tashkent. Her collection in the romantic style was highly appreciated by the experts of the Fashion House. In 2008, she has become the winner among young designers of Uzbekistan in the nomination of “The Best Use of the National Fabrics”.
In creation of new clothing Zulfiya is inspired by the Uzbek national fabrics, of which the designer creates samples of modern national dress, skillfully combining weaves of the narrow fabrics, creating new patterns for clothing.
In selection of design for modern clothes along with constructive and decorative solutions and artistic elements that got formed throughout the centuries, is of great importance for how long and for what purpose the clothing is intended.
Zulfiya Sultan in her creative search pays special attention to three main elements of the artistic construction of traditional Uzbek dress: the texture of the fabric, the location of colorful images and decorations. She also likes creating new forms, experimenting on the texture of the fabric.
In 2009, Z. Sultan organized the fashion studio; she has created the evening dresses in the style of “baby-doll” called “ZUZU”, in 2010 at the Fashion Week in Tashkent, showed collection of evening dresses with the brand name “Zulfiya Sulton”, which is radically different from the previous ones. They have clearly manifested the practical experience of designer.
Zulfiya says that she tries to make clothes for women that would make women, who chose her dresses, to feel themselves beautiful and attractive. The designer uses velvet appliques, different fabric, lays the patterns on the fabric using only the samples in creation of her dresses.
The brand name of “Zulfiya Sulton” is characteristic of the symbiosis of the European aesthetics with the Uzbek national elements, creatively using the existing traditions. When creating the festive clothes, along with silk and adras, it uses thin and excelsior fabrics.
Models by Zulfiya were shown at numerous international exhibitions, fashion weeks, for example, she participated in the exhibition “Les Belles Artistes a Paris” held in 2012 in the Perfomance gallery in Paris, and in 2014-2015 – in a number of fashion shows in Italy, Russia and France, showcasing our national culture through the samples of Uzbek national clothes created by her. Women’s dresses by Zulfiya, who participated in the Fashion Week “Altaroma” organized by the Rome Marriott Grand Hotel Flora in Italy in 2014, have been carefully studied and highly appreciated by the curator of the Fashion Week – Simonetta Gianfelice and the President of Altaroma, the Director of Fendi designer fashion house – Silvia Venturini Fendi.The same year, Z. Sultan participated in the project Festival Della Moda Russa in Milan, where she was awarded the prize “For the Highest Quality”.
Collection created by Zulfiya– “Harem Beauties Riot” at the fashion show in 2015 turned into a demonstration of the unique beauty of the Uzbek fabrics and their modern usage, leaving an indelible impression in the world of fashion. With this collection created from ikat fabric, the designer participated at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia, held in Moscow in 2015. Among more than seventy participants from Russia, USA, Turkey and other countries, the brand “Zulfiya Sulton” attracted special attention of the visitors.
During the MC Fashion Week-2015, organized by the Chamber of Fashion of Monaco, with the assistance of the Kingdom of Monte Carlo and its leadership, presentation of the collection “Spring/Summer 2016” by the brand “Zulfiya Sulton” took place.
Zulfiya Sultan today is not only one of the leading designers of Uzbekistan, but she is a good mentor as well. Under the brand name “Zulfiya Sulton”, she has opened the fashion consulting courses, where she teaches design skills. A qualified designer, according to Zulfiya, should be able not only to create new images on the paper, but also to implement them in life. The main objective of the fashion project by Zulfiya Sultan is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry in our country.
The philosophy of the brand “Zulfiya Sulton” is a constant creative search and correspondence to the era, thanks to which the “many-voiced” texture of the East connecting with certain trends of the West, creates conditions for the emergence of a new harmony. Sophisticated cut of the garments and hand embroidery give a special charm to the monochrome fabrics. Thin Uzbek fabrics of excelsior and silk are beautifully framed with such thick fabrics like velvet and adras made using the ancient technique of “ikat”.
The history of the Uzbek fabrics has always attracted the attention of this designer. In her representation, the traditional patterns of the national crafts, being in harmony with each other, reflect the beauty of the universe through color and form. Zulfiya Sultan, deeply feeling this harmony, creates beautiful clothes for women.